Studying Tara St James

By Brodie Lancaster / October 4th, 2011 in Fashion / New York / 420 views

A designer with a conscience, Brooklyn-based Tara St James founded her high-concept label Study just two years ago in an attempt to forge fashion and sustainable practices. As well as being the fashion director for the Uniform Project, she supports local artisans in India by using their hand-woven textiles in her garments.

“I started in the fall of 2009 with my first collection entitled The Square Project, a study in zero-waste pattern-making,” Tara told us in an interview earlier this week. “The nine-piece collection was a reaction to the mass market fast fashion that has inundated the market lately and created a false perception of cost and necessity. Study focuses on craft, thoughtful design and ethical sourcing with forward thinking esthetic. The name comes from my desire to educate myself on a different aspect of sustainable production every season, starting with pattern-making, then weaving, dyeing, knitting and draping.”

Study’s fall/winter 2011 film highlights St James’ attention to detail in that delicate approach to draping and playful woolen capes, paired with Bliss Lau‘s intricate leather harnesses. Directed by Alexandra Roxo, the piece stars models Emily Wroe and Brandon Acton-Bond and is inherently connected to the collection.

“We wanted [the capes] to take on a sort of magical feeling, as a character in the piece,” Roxo explains. “We started with one main cape and then built, adding a few more capes and a jacket. The feeling they give is an enveloping one, and the two characters in the piece are seen curling up and almost hiding in capes, and then opening back up again. Bahar Shahpar (stylist and collaborator) mentioned the word butterfly at some point when we were creating the piece, which inspired me as well to think of the capes as wings, and to show a transformation of sorts.”

Composer Sonia Manalili’s accompanying score is an upbeat and explorative that roams the highs and lows of New York City living appearing on screen, which she says was inspired by the city’s transit system. “There are so many faces, stories, sounds and imagery that you experience while moving through the city. You can observe the city in an anonymous way while simultaneously interacting with it as you ride the subway, walk through the streets or bike around. Inspiration often comes from something I’ve encountered randomly as I make my way around town.”

In its conclusion, Roxo’s characters complete their metamorphosis, coming together in the cocoon comprised of Study’s effortless, enveloping garments. It is a perfect visual representation of a project that brought so many elements, ideas and people together.